Llyn Elsi from Betws-y-Coed

Tuesday 28th March 2023

It was raining. It would be pouring at times and this was no day to be spent up on the mountains Snowdonia. I could either lock myself inside the bunkhouse for the day… Or layer up, get my boots on, pack extra layers and embrace the elements…

I hadn’t driven for more than three hours on the Sunday to spend the days of my week away trapped indoors! Rather than to drive somewhere for this bold experience, I decided to set off on foot from the bunkhouse in Betws-y-Coed. This walk was partly inspired by the warden, Helen, who would speak of her admiration for nearby Llyn Elsi.

A short distance from the bunkhouse (which I’ll write about in a separate post), I met the village church and turned left, walking towards the woodland south of the river.

Betws-y-Coed is a very much a ‘hub’ for hikers visiting Snowdonia and signs like this surely help to encourage people to explore the local footpaths and trails.

I thought little of it at first, believing that I was ‘fit enough’ to cope with a small climb up from the village… But it wasn’t easy and lasted a good while! (Plus, I was also layered up in GoreTex…)

Broad forestry tracks make for easy access. Had I owned or rented a suitable bike for this trip, I could’ve equally spent a good amount of time in these woods on two wheels.

Soon, I was approaching Llyn Elsi.

Even a twitcher might’ve struggled to identify the island-dwelling birds with so many drops falling from the cloud above.

On a brighter day, this bench would’ve provided an ideal opportunity to pause. But I was only likely to continue feeling damp and wet on this day.

My walk continued to follow this broad forestry tracks.

I could see fallen footpath sign amongst the tree stumps on the land beneath me. If those stumps weren’t hazardous enough, their was a lot rain coming down. I could keep a decent pace along the man-made paths.

I had intended to follow this footpath heading north-west towards Rhiwddolion. But it didn’t appear to been clearly cut between the stumps and other trip hazards. I added a few metres to the length of my walk but again, played it safe along the forestry tracks.

I passed this huge fallen tree close to a disused quarry. While it probably hadn’t come down on this same day, there was also quite a breeze picking up pace – another reason to avoid the mountains and stay safe. I had to climb over/under the fallen branches of another to continue on.

Eventually, I did depart from the forestry tracks to duck off along this waymarked lane. I was also using the GPS on my phone at this point, for extra reassurance on my whereabouts.

In a truly wild experience, I had to force my way through these fallen branches and greenery. Quite literally, straddling the footpath. There was no way around it. I wouldn’t have favoured this without waterproofs!

I soon found myself walking on the Roman Road of Sarn Helen, as intended. Close to the farm of Ty Mawr.

My goal now was to make my way to a mapped car park and picnic area beside the A5. I could see a few Duke of Edinburgh participants away to my left. Whenever I’ve met them in Snowdonia, they’re never local kids or even from Welsh schools. I feel for them somewhat, being thrust in a the late-winter of North Wales and expected to camp overnight.

Further on and I would leave the gravel tracks again, for the green fields beyond this wooden stile.

I followed the path downhill and in to the rear of a farmyard. I can no longer place where this was on the map but, even on such a dismal day, I felt the view was to be admired. Mountains, faint in the distance.

From the farm house, I turned left along the track and climbed the gate you see above… Before noticing this signs on the other side and realising I’d misread the map. Not wanting to turn back (and commit a second trespass), I followed the forestry tracks once more.

Had I followed my intended route, I’d have come down this way. I’d have intended to come down this way! From this end, it seems quite likely that I wouldn’t have been able to pass anyway.

I was surprised to find one car parked at Gwydir Forest Park and the occupants asked whether they could let their dogs off the lead further ahead. I had plenty of picnic benches to choose from. I didn’t feel bothered by the drops from overhead; it was time for lunch.

About halfway around on my walk, I’ll share my experience of Swallow Falls in my next post.

Thanks for reading.