Tuesday 14th May 2024
I’d made it down from the top of Moel Llyfnant and found myself standing amongst a grassy ground laden with cottongrass. With a hope of keeping my feet dry, I needed to get back on to higher ground, in my pursuit of Arenig Fawr.
As before, click here if you’d like to see the route I followed.
For my complete album of photos from this walk, please click here.
I made my mistakes early on. It was either over this stile too soon or ignoring it altogether and having to return to it later… I can’t quite remember now! All I can recall is following the wrong fence boundary for far too long.
Eventually, I got myself back on track and continued with the inevitable climb.
Very tough going. That’s one point I’d like to make clear, aside from the obvious fact that some of the views now beneath me were stupendous.
Nearing the top, I pass a small pond of water. I can imagine people wild camping up here and, there you are; a water source.
Handrailing helped to guide me over the rocky false summits.
Eventually, I made it to the highest point of the day. Arenig Fawr and I’d not passed by another soul since I’d set off in the morning. I haven’t met many people who’ve been up this one but, for it’s solitude away from the massif, I had expected to cross paths with one or two.
Up here, it was somewhat cooler than across the way in the morning. There was more of a breeze and I felt its sharp edge. After taking in the views, I began my descent, with an eye toward a restful evening at my accommodation.
My next marker on the map was the mountain lake of Llyn Arenig Fawr. Somewhere beneath me yet far out of sight.
There was no path to walk. No boundary to cling on to.
Rough ground underfoot and for the first time on this outing. I did resort to using my phone’s GPS (and the frustrations that brings) and learned, without much surprise, that I had soon veered off course.
Eventually, I did pick up on a faint path beneath me and felt confident that I could put the phone away.
Llyn Arenig Fawr. I didn’t know too much about this reservoir beforehand. To me, it was best known as the site of a bothy – and I don’t know of many of those around North Wales (Penygadair on Cadair Idris is technically a shelter, not a bothy).
Suddenly, there were other people present. Then others I would pass along the path ahead. Looking again at my map, I noticed how close this site was to the road and, even without a car park, it all started to make sense!
I didn’t venture in to the bothy, for fear that I might disturb someone. Or they might surprise me! I’m not convinced I’d ever consider staying inside of one. I’d rather pitch my tent and I’m unlikely to take myself up to a place like this under adverse weather conditions.
On the way down towards the road, I had a good view of Llyn Celyn. When I was planning to do this walk in 2022, I said that I’d drive over and visit the lake afterwards, look at the memorial and all.
Before this valley was dammed and flooded to provide the city of Liverpool with another source of water (which they didn’t ultimately need…), the village of Capel Celyn could be found here, in the Tryweren Valley.
This idea of flooding another Welsh valley and destroying homes to provide water for another area, has never sat well with the people of Wales. ‘Cofiwch Dryweryn’ is a message spread far and wide across Wales. In large and small print. On the sides of building and up on the tallest mountains.
It simply means… ‘Remember Tryweryn’.
From memory, I walked a good two miles along this road, soon overtaking other walkers who’d parked much closer to the lake; making use of any gravel or passing place that they could squeeze their cars on to. I also passed beneath where the railway line would’ve crossed over the road, as you’ll see above.
I walk around many parts of the UK – mainly England – where I often think of how unfortunate it is that these train routes have been lost. While Wales isn’t the largest of countries, it still seems to be fairly well served for this kind of transport.
A good day’s walking was over, as I arrived back at my car. A much tougher day than I’d anticipated – I also felt glad that I hadn’t attempted this route in the wintry conditions of March 2022!
My thoughts now turned to what to purchase and cook for dinner… I treated myself to a roof overhead for this trip, having left the tent far away back at home.
Have you been up Arenig Fawr? Or Arenig Fach?
Thanks for reading.
Walks With Olly 