As planned out in a previous post, earlier this year; the Cumbria Way would become my first long-distance walk since the Cleveland Way of September 2021.
Saturday 16th-Sunday 17th May 2025
I had the week booked off work. Most of my packing was done before the day of departure… I’d allowed myself more of a ‘relaxed’ start this time – driving up the day before and then spending the night in a hotel.
I’d booked in to The Sanderling Hotel in Morecombe, approximately one hour’s drive from Ulverston and the start of the Cumbria Way. I’d driven approximately four hours to get to this point where previously, I left home early in the morning, drove for five hours and started walking for the North York Moors.
For a three star hotel, I felt it was reasonable. Tea making facilities in the room. Noisy floorboards. Uninsulated walls. But my own bathroom and, for an extra charge, they’d serve breakfast in the morning.
There wasn’t much of a view from my window but I was comfortable for the night.
I awoke on the Sunday morning, knowing that they wouldn’t be serving breakfast before 10am… I would’ve wanted to have been long gone by then but, passively, said “okay”, at the prospect of a warm cooked meal to start me off.
I arrived in Ulverston at midday and paid £40 for a week’s parking at The Gill car park, right beside the official start/end of the walk (unfortunately, someone was sat beside it so, you’ll have to make do with the stream-side image above, until I return here to collect my car, after completing the walk!
I spoke briefly with a retired couple who were sat on a bench close by. They lived locally (although, I thought I could hear the ‘Londonner’ in their accents) and were taking a break from decorating their home. They went on to talk about the Cumbria Way and how the waymarking around Ulverston had been improved, as many walkers were otherwise straying from the path.
I set off in a usual flurry of anxiety. Heavy pack behind me. I didn’t weigh it on this occasion – I’d guess it was around 16kg with all of my food for several days… I didn’t find it as heavy as on any previous walk.
Suddenly climbing up away from the town, I passed a couple of other walkers (not long-distance) who wished me well and spoke of the good weather forecast for the day.
Then, I found a sense of what that retired couple had told me; how the waymarking for this Way isn’t all it could be. At least this farmer had made an effort.
I wasn’t even one hour in to my seventy-mile walk before I lost the path.
I should continued north through a gate at SD277803. There wasn’t a waymarker on the gate. However, older images on Google StreetView suggest that it was once painted. I was also only relying on a Harvey’s map. As lightweight and waterproof as they are, they lack the clarity of an OS map in all its 1:25,000 of scale.
Instead, I followed the road downhill to a crossroads (SD280802). I knew I’d gone wrong. I backtracked up and down that hill a couple of times. I’d walked the road north to rejoin the Cumbria Way near Hollowmire (SD276815).
A short section bypassed but I’m sure my efforts still count towards completion! I’d soon have to cross a B-road and descend further in to Broughton Beck.
I passed through the gate above, walked between fences and then over a stone stile in a wall at the other end. I noticed a few feet of shade to my left. A chance to stop and escape the sun? I was one hour in to my walk. Either way, I also needed a wee.
But that wasn’t enough. I’d been feeling slightly faint and uncomfortably weak after crossing the B-road. I thought I just needed food. Instead, I found myself hunched forward, both hands pressed against the wall, retching and trying to cough up what I could!
As I say; this was in the very beginning of a long walk that I expected would last up for five days. Suddenly, my great plan was under threat. Forced to sit down and rest.
Was it the cooked vegetarian breakfast? I don’t like mushrooms at the best of times. Was the tap water from the bathroom not for drinking? I did feel it tasted a bit funny in my squash. But fine once boiled for a cup of tea. My hydration bladder was full of it, all 2 litres. I managed to run it through my Sawyer Mini Filter, using a collapsible 2 litre bottle and it did suddenly taste a bit better.
Sat down on that stile, I felt as though I didn’t have the energy to carry on. Neither did I have the stomach to consume food and keep it down. But sitting here in the sun, hours away from home, wasn’t the answer.
I could turn back. Or… I could plod on towards Coniston and aim to complete my first day. Perhaps I’d not feel as bad tomorrow. Or, at least, I could make a plan to head home early.
By the way, this is what my lunch looked like for this trip. A selection of breakfast bars and snacks to get me through each day. Something to be consumed every two hours. Far from gourmet but it was enough for me.
I was keen to get myself across the A5092. Beyond which, I would enter the Lake District National Park. Yes, while the Cumbria Way runs through it, both the start and end points sit outside.
Having gained some elevation to get to the National Park, I would stop again at a convenient point, sat upon a rock. I forget the location but this time, I was able to eat something. I’d been yawning incredibly up to this point – when your body decides it needs to ‘cleanse’ itself, you lose more than just the bad stuff inside.
I recall passing these ruined buildings near Kiln Bank, before finally stepping on to moorland for the first time on this trip.
I recall seeing the house, Tottlebank, from a distance and the climb to get there. In my tired state, it was akin to climbing a mountain, for me.
Beyond there, my goal was to go to Beacon Tarn. A name I know of from social media. Now that I was up ‘in the fells’, I felt as though it was a mere stone’s throw away. I could be there within the hour. Collecting water and filtering it for a cool drink might even be an option! I’d not passed any pubs or shops thus far.
Approximately one hour on from my last stopping point, I did arrive at Beacon Tarn. Out of shot, it was a fairly busy place, on this Sunday late afternoon.
Swimmers along the east side, including a man and his dog. A few swimmers to the north. Shade-seekers sat to the south, as I passed by them. Why was nobody sat at home, dreading the Monday morning to come?
I decided to not stop and collect any water. Doubting myself and the viability of drinking from a “swimming pool” that might also have a salt content that could ruin my water filter. Looking at my map, I could see a couple of potential river options, just a bit further ahead.
Either way, I was edging closer to Coniston. In another hour or so, I might be pitching my tent.
First, I crossed what I believed was Black Beck. Not pictured but, it wasn’t even worthy of being labelled a stream, let alone a river. Definitely not safe to drink. Further on, I crossed Mere Beck, which is what you can see above.
On the one hand, I felt a temptation to take time out to collect the water. But on the other, much larger hand, I could see that I was about to descend towards the water’s edge, meaning that the end to my day (and, a mains supply of water) wouldn’t be too far away.
I passed a few more people as I crossed the A5084. There’s a small parking area for one or two cars. I apologise for the lack of focus above – my camera is now several years old and sometimes struggles to focus on even a basic image. I might need to consider replacing it at some point – I don’t it’s worth the cost to repair even a £300 camera.
I was now walking beside Coniston Water. Too late in the date for any arrivals or departures of the boats that set off and land from here. A younger group of lads were just drying off, having been for what must’ve been a ‘refreshing’ swim.
While the idea of walking beside “a big lake” may sound idyllic, I found the terrain here to offer an unexpected challenge. From rocks lower down to short but steep paths, lined with great tree roots to snatch at my toes.
I must’ve walked for nearly two miles, following this path. I’d just about run out of water as I arrived at the campsite.
Of campsites, there are several beside Coniston Water and most of which are marked on the OS map. My plan had been to avoid Coniston Hall (“everyone” seems to stop there and it has mixed reviews) and instead, to stay at Hoathwaite Farm, which is formerly owned by the National Trust.
But the waymarking to paths that leave the Cumbria Way; it was almost non-existent. I didn’t want to dig my phone out for GPS clarity but I wasn’t at all sure of the correct route up to the farm.
I did pass beside at least two other campsites – one of which proclaims to be a ‘quiet site’. But still, I couldn’t see any obvious sign or direction for the reception. No indication of prices. I marched on, knowing that Coniston Hall was at least at the very end of this lakeside section…
I wasn’t happy to be paying £16 for the night, having walked in with my kit on my back. No car. While some others were clearly ‘there for the week/weekend’, ‘too clean to be campers’ and apparently immune to the idea of not disturbing your neighbours. If it wasn’t for the neighbouring tent(s), the farm’s dogs spend the night outside, constantly barking at anything and at nothing.
Coniston Hall is a very convenient site for Cumbria Way walkers. But honestly, even for a single night, I’d advise you to stay elsewhere. They clearly attract a lot of custom and, at the same time, everything – including the goods in the shop – are available for “cash only”. Perhaps I shouldn’t judge or make the wrong kind of comment but they must be handling a large volume of cash at this time of year and, well, we’re in a world that’s striving to become more cash-less.
At least I wasn’t feeling sick at all, by this point. I rehydrated and ate my meal before heading to bed early, as ever on these camping trips. Tired. Pleased to have walked almost fifteen miles and hopeful that I’d be okay to carry on in the morning.
Thanks for reading. Day 2 will follow.
Walks With Olly 