Thursday 22nd May 2025
It was time to complete my seventy mile long. In perhaps only another couple of hours, I could complete the Cumbria Way and arrive in Carlisle, just in time for lunch.
I left the campsite at Cardewlees, via the site owner’s permitted route down to Dalston, which I hinted at in my previous post. I can tell you, it is MUCH preferable to following the road on foot! At worst, I had to climb over one gate that appeared to have been tied shut. But again, this was not any sort of public right of way.
I crossed the footbridge at the railway station, having already navigated my way through the industrial estate.
In Dalston, there’s the option to restock on food supplies at the nearby Co-Op. Beyond that, it’s not far to re-join the trail – from here until the end now, it’s effectively a cycle path in very good condition.
Away to my left, the building that I thought resembled an inland nuclear power station, was actually a Nescafe factory! I’m not a fan of coffee so, that plant is just as evil, if you ask me.
I’d walk beside the River Caldew for the final time, giving way to the occasional cyclist. Many of whom seemed to be local (retired) but equally friendly, soon passing in both directions.
It is very true that sections of the Cumbria Way can succumb to flooding. In fact, the walk between Caldbeck and Dalston can be particularly bad, from what I’d seen of another YouTuber’s attempt in spring one year.
Aside from the rising temperature, this final stretch was as simple and straightforward a walk as one could probably imagine.
I did pass beneath what appeared to be a brand new road bridge under construction.
Before reaching the outer edge at Carlisle, I took a moment to stop at one of the benches along the way. I was equally keen to complete this long-distance walk, with the better portion of it now behind me. I was also keen to tackle my next dread: public transport back to my car in Ulverston.
Those near-forgotten sounds and smells of city centre traffic grew louder.
Across the A595 stands Carlisle Castle and, a bit further beyond there, you’d find Hadrian’s Wall Path, running west-to-east. I was almost in Scotland and can imagine there’s a cause for some people to walk the Cumbria Way and then continue on with a portion of Hadrian’s Wall, for a longer adventure.
I’ve never felt overly enthusiastic towards the idea of walking Hadrian’s Wall. It’s “on the list”, somewhere down there. Perhaps once I’ve unearthed a few more grey hairs.
Walking in to Carlisle, I decided to explore the cathedral before finding the official end point to the my walk. Entry here is free. Donations are also welcome.
It was a busier day here than what my photos may portray.
This would’ve once been the crypt. Now, it’s an inviting area of extended seating for the popular café. I still prefer the one at Gloucester Cathedral; as dark and dusty as it was Centuries ago.
I’d strongly recommend visiting and exploring it yourself. From this scale model, I did see a resemblance to Shawshank Prison!
Much of the centre was being dug up and probably renewed. This met that traffic (wide queues of slow moving people) were ushered down either side of the ongoing works. If there was an official ‘end point’ to the Cumbria Way, I was unlikely to be able to reach it.
Instead, I made my way around to the Visitor Information Centre. Inside, you can buy merchandise for both nearby long-distance trails. I also signed my name in to the book for those who’ve completed the Cumbria Way.
Finding the train station was easy. I needed to get an Avanti Coast (fast and smooth)train down to Lancaster and then change to a steady and bumpy Northern Railways line.
I do not enjoy navigating public transport. As the train arrived, I was looking for carriage ‘B’… Of course, they weren’t in alphabetical order! I joined a few others in having to jog down to the other end of the platform as the final whistle was blown and they started to close the doors.
Worse still, I found I’d booked a seat beside some smartly dressed fellow! While the rest of the carriage remained comparatively empty! I crammed my rucksack in to the compartment overheard, unable to reach for the lunch I’d just purchased. He had to move aside for me to claim my window seat. I blame technology and the need for “efficient” seat allocation… Next time, I might book a second seat for my rucksack!
At least there was no nonsense on the Northern train. Apart from the fact that I’d misplaced my tickets as the conductor came around! I later found that they’d left my pocket to hide down the side of the seat… He was perplexed to see that I’d travelled from Carlisle, before realising that I’d changed at Lancaster. Meanwhile, I’m the type of user who just hands him “everything”. I don’t specifically select or recognise the correct individual ticket.
A bit of a walk along roads and I was at my car in Ulverston, beside the obelisk you’ll see above (beyond my ramblings), which marks the official start/end of the Cumbria Way. That couple I’d met on the Sunday sadly weren’t outside drinking another coffee. I’d probably missed them by one hour.
A good hour’s driving followed (after a brief stop at the local Aldi). For I was heading down in to Wasdale for the night, where I had booked at room for one night, with a view to tackling Scafell Pike the very next day!
More on this though, next time!
In summary: I’d definitely recommend walking the Cumbria Way. I underestimated a bit, given that it’s ‘only’ 70 miles long and crosses just the one fell in High Pike. It is still the Lake District and, whether it’s too hot and too wet, plan ahead and be aware because the weather can work against you.
Thanks for reading.
Walks With Olly 