Having completed the Cumbria Way in four and a half days, my reward was to sleep in a real bed for the evening, before heading home sometime the following day. I’d treated myself to a night at the Wasdale Head Inn, with a plan to walk up Scafell Pike the very next day.
I didn’t enjoy the long thirty minute drive down from the nearest road, wide enough for more than a single car. I encountered too many opposing motorists, unable to give the gesture of ‘thank you’, as I pulled in to allow them to continue their escape from the valley.
I was very pleased with the hospitality I received at the reception, where I checked in and was handed my key. Parking wasn’t a problem either.
It was about £60 for the next in this first floor room (I forget the name), with my own bathroom and breakfast was included in the price – to be served over in the main building.
There are options to purchase an evening meal there, while I was somewhat content to tuck in to the sandwich and “sharer” bag of crisps I’d purchased in Aldi.
I’d like to point out that this beam is a bit of a hazard. I’m 6ft1in tall and I’d say the lower edge is roughly below the level of my eyes! You can see I hung an item over clothing over it, in the hope I’d managed to not whack my head (which did happen on at least two occasions).
A bit of journaling, perhaps. I don’t recall attempting to watch any TV. Then, it was time for bed…
It wasn’t long after dark that I felt an uncomfortable urge to head to the bathroom. Was I going to be sick?! There was something very not right within my stomach. I sat on the toilet to relieve myself… What came out of me was like water. Many litres of it, fired out as if from a high pressured hose.
Back to bed… Then, fifteen minutes later, I was on the toilet again!
This habit repeated, sadly, through much of a night. Fifteen minute intervals gradually receded to hourly visits. I couldn’t fathom where all of this “water” was coming from. My temperature was rising, heart beating hard.
Sometime after 6am, I awoke after the bare minimal of sleep, feeling one final trip to the bathroom. This time, it was hands and head over the sink. I think I vomited no fewer than eight times in succession, with barely a spare second to take an inward breath. Whatever was in my, I hope that was it and that my body had finally cleansed itself of whatever infection or parasite had found its way in.
My thoughts had already turned to that water I collected the day before. Tiny leaches present on the outside of the water bottle. Yet absolutely no effects for more than twenty four hours. How I’d purchased a pack of purification tablets before this trip, only to decide to leave them in my car after arriving in Ulverston.
Needless to say, I didn’t take in any breakfast that morning. I’d struggled to keep sips of water down (or up?!) through the night. I was in no state to be near England’s Highest mountain. Absolutely gutted. A day or rest wasn’t in order as the rooms were already booked for the night.
(My best guess is that it was something gastrointestinal, like e-coli)
I was back in my car at around 8am, absolutely depleted and in no way related to walking seventy miles across the Lake District. I could only drive home. Or perhaps get as far as Ulverston and find accommodation there… But I kept on driving, joined the M6 – very much aware that this Friday was the beginning of the Bank Holiday Weekend…
A drive that should’ve taken around five hours under normal circumstances, took eight and a half hours, thanks to the holiday traffic heading south down the M5. I made just one service station stop in a 290 mile journey! Sips of water kept me going. I left the M5 up in the Cotswolds, still some way from Junction 21. Even my ideal detour route via the outskirts of Bath and Bristol, was congested with vehicles of everyone trying to escape normal life at the very same time!
Almost one year on and I’m still gutted that my trip ended in this way. Did I place too much faith in the Sawyer Mini Filter? I’ll definitely use tablets, next time. I’ve still yet to climb Scafell Pike… Two trips up there and two incomplete opportunities. I feel reluctant to immediately travel all that way and then, down in to Wasdale Head again.
On the drive back up, few drivers were prepared to give way or again, thank me for pulling over when I was travelling uphill. Google Maps, for some reason, led me on a fell-top road route with far too many dips, bumps and turns for someone so exhausted. All to shave a probable millisecond from the duration of my return journey!
I spent the next week off work, consuming rehydration tablets alongside a diet of bread and crackers. But I recovered. I haven’t completed another long-distance walk since but it’s almost time to start again.
Thanks for reading.
Walks With Olly 