Planning for my Cumbria Way Walk

Next month, I’ll be heading north to walk 73 miles across the Lake District, following the Cumbria Way. This will be my first long-distance walk since completing the Cleveland Way in 2021. As before; I’ll be carrying all of my kit and camping along the way!

Currently, I’ve allowed myself “about five days” to complete it in. I have a number of convenient campsites in mind and an idea to then head up Scafell Pike, once the main walk is complete.

The Plan?

While this trail can be walked in either direction, I’ve decided that I’ll be starting in the south (Ulverston, just outside of the National Park) and finishing in Carlisle (also outside of the Lake District). I’ve not contemplated doing it the opposite way – perhaps because I’ll be driving up from the south.

I was planning to have done this walk back in August 2024… That didn’t happen. My idea was to always finish at Carlisle and take the train back to Ulverston, via one change at Lancaster. This is a long-stay car park in Ulverston (approximately £40 for the week, last time I checked). Now, however, I’m wondering whether I should instead drive all the way to Carlisle, leave my car there and then “do the public transport bit” at the very beginning…

Logistics! All while I’ve yet to decided whether I’ll be driving up the night before, a day early or during the wee hours of a dark spring morning!!

By the way, if you’re planning your own walk along here, The Cumbria Way Walk is a great resource for ideas.

Day 1: Ulverston to Coniston – 14.4 miles

This is the day at which my pack will be heaviest and my body will feel at its least able to venture on. Compared to previous walks [The Ridgeway, 26 miles; the South Downs Way, about the same; the Cleveland Way, not much less…!], this should feeling like a gentle easing in to the adventure! Regardless of how much on-wheels travel may happen beforehand, I should be able to get my tent pitched before dark.

I’m intending to stay at Hoathwaite Farm, which is conveniently marked on the OS Map. I’m aware of another campsite nearby and not as far from the Way and I’ve seen it’s favoured by YouTubers. But I can also imagine it being ‘busy’. More so than my preference.

I am probably going to be carrying most of my food for the trek, from the get-go. If I decide to be more sensible about things though, I’m sure I could stock up on supplies in Coniston the next morning, as the Cumbria Way passes right through.

Day 2: Coniston to Borrowdale – 21.8 miles

This is more like it! As if fourteen miles carrying 18kg will be enough of a warm up to crack out an extra fifty per cent on top of the previous day’s tally!! Also taking in to account the fact that I am now in my forties and haven’t done this for over three years.

In the second half of this day, I’ll pass through the Langdale area – I believe this is the only point at which I’ve previously met the Cumbria Way (on a camping trip in September 2022). That’s also where I’ll meet the highest point of my day and cover what looks to be the highest portion of ascent, despite not climbing any of the nearby fells.

I’ll be looking to stay at Chapel House Farm. Of course, I’ve not yet approached or booked anywhere as I haven’t yet decided which day(s) I’m doing what. Being self-employed now, I’ve only given myself the week off. Having potentially undiagnosed ADHD, I’ll possibly arrange everything in a frenzy with hours to spare!

Day 3: Borrowdale to Keswick – 9.7 miles

You read that correctly! Somewhat of a “rest day” for me, it seems.

Yes, certainly; you’d think that I could shave a few miles from the previous day’s challenge and shift them on to this one instead. There are campsites in the Langdale area that I could use. However, they are owned by the National Trust and I’m sure that they are going to be “rather expensive”.

Looking at the OS Map, I could probably take a detour up Catbells and back – some say it’s a favourite walk in the area; perhaps also Maiden Moor. Otherwise, I foresee a late-morning departure from the tent and a stroll beyond Derwent Water.

It looks as though the route I’ve plotted leads me to one of the Caravan and Camping Club sites. As a non-member, I know from past experience [final night on the Cleveland Way at Scarborough] that these places will demand £20 for you to sleep on the ground in a tent you’ve carried all this way. Let’s hope I don’t need to spend £9 on an XL camping gas canister this time! Or, there is Lake District Camping but, I’ve not yet found their website.

Day 4: Keswick to Caldbeck – 15.5 miles

Now I’m remembering something that has come to mind previously, as if I have actually planned this trip before…! There’s a youth hostel, YHA Skiddaw House, a few miles north of Keswick. At this point, you can either turn right and follow the ‘high route’ (as I intend to do). Or, should the elements be out in force, turn left and take a walk that skirts around the fells.

Or, you could stay at the YHA. I did that once, on The Ridgeway… I’ve sworn to myself that I’ll never do it again! Sharing rooms with strangers, pretending to fit in to a bunkbed and paying too much for breakfast. There may be the option of camping outside and using their facilities – but, you do need to contact them in advance [planning] and it probably costs as much as the Caravan sites.

On this day, I’ll cross over High Pike – which I believe is the highest point along the Cumbria Way. When I first researched this walk several years ago, I was surprised that it doesn’t cover any of the ‘big’ fells. To be honest, I was willing to look past it in favour of other trails.

As I’ve said to a few people in person more recently; I have considered wild camping “near Skiddaw”, which would certainly stretch Day 3 a bit. I have a reluctance to spend too much money just to sleep on the ground somewhere and, at the same time, I don’t know the area. I haven’t ‘reccied’ any potential wild camping spots.

(Of course, it’s important for me to say that wild camping in the Lake District is not permitted. But if you do, please ensure that you take everything away with you and leave nothing behind.)

Anyway, the current idea is to stay at Caldbeck Camping.

Day 5: Caldbeck to Carlisle – 15.9 miles

Minutes in to the start of my walk on this final day, I’ll be leaving the Lake District National Park. Free from the fells and lakes that aren’t… Actually… Lakes. Apart from one (which you don’t even see on the Cumbria Way). It looks like a comparatively flat walk compared with the other days. In fact, the elevation chart slopes downhill as the hours pass!

I can feel a desire within myself to now try and cram this in to a four-day experience. But then, I’d not have time in Carlisle to visit the cathedral or maybe step on to (and then back from) Hadrian’s Wall Path. Also, I’ve definitely not looked at a train timetable and I wouldn’t want to have to sleep in or near the station because they trains don’t run after a certain time.

I think I’ll enjoy the Cumbria Way, however I decided to tackle it. I’m expecting it won’t be quite as challenging as the Cleveland Way or even the South Downs Way. But we’ll see… I shall see!!

Scafell Pike

As I pass by (and curse) the Langdale Pikes, on Day 2, climbing that relentless staircase of stone; England’s tallest mountain will be some way to my left. I might even be able to see it! Yet a deviation to and from at this point, on my 21 mile day, seems utterly ridiculous! In 2021, I’d actually have been fit enough. In 2025… I’m an overworked, self-employed carpenter!

‘Day 6’ it is, then. Assuming I’ve found somewhere to stay overnight. There are National Trust [expensive] campsites near to it and car parks that I expect will charge £8-9 per day. Also, this is likely to be a Friday or Saturday, based on my current loose schedule, meaning it’s likely to be crawling with people on top.

Still, having already climbed the highest mountain in Wales and [second] highest in Scotland, I need to tick this one off. I didn’t do it in 2022 and, as much as I’d be happy to return here another year, I have a strong feeling that Scafell Pike needs to be done only once.

Thanks for reading.